Author Topic: HOT SIDE AERATION PROBLEMS  (Read 6286 times)


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« on: December 10, 2006, 01:48:31 PM »
Cheers Everyone!

I've been brewing about 7 years now.  The last 2 years I have been brewing with an insulated Igloo system in which I have to heat my mash water and then pour it into the mash tun.  There's a lot of splashing and hot side aeration when I do this.  I've noticed the effects of the HSA about a month after I keg or bottle.  It's also knocked the sh*t out of my scores in competition.  There's nothing I can do to prevent this type of hot water transfer with the system I have.  I know a lot of homebrewers have this same type of system and brew great, award winning beers.  Right now I'm thinking of buying a pump to transfer the mash water from my heating kettle to the mash tun.  I know I'll lose a certain amount of heat when I do this.  This concerns me.  I guess I just have to do the trial and error appoach if I go this route unless someone knows the heat loss with this type of transfer.
I do 5 gallon batches and the amount of water I use to mash is about 4.25 gallons.  My grains are about 11-12 lbs.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the HSA down with an insulated igloo system during hot water transfer????

Cheers Again Everyone!

Offline BeerSmith

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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2006, 03:25:40 PM »

I'm a little puzzled, as I use a similar system - basically dump the hot water in and then mix in the grist.  I personally thought that hot side aeration was more of a problem after mashing as the hot water from your faucet has a lot of air in it to start with, and not much of that is removed until you boil the wort.  Once you convert the sugars to simpler ones during mashing they are much more susceptible to oxidation - in particular you don't want a lot of splashing after you boil.

Here's two suggestions:
 - Try to add your water with minimal splasing
 - Add the grist after you add the water as it tends to hold a lot of air otherwise
 - Minimize any splashing after the mash step is complete - this is where it matters even more

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« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2006, 04:58:18 PM »
I'm as puzzled as you are.  I've been brewing for about 7 years and have NEVER had a problem with oxidation during racking or packaging.  My bottles and kegs are purged with CO2 prior to transfer and the transfer is smooth and quiet.  It sounds like I transfer and dough-in just like you, however, this is the only place I can think of where I might pick up some oxidation compounds.  I read and heard that HSA is a real posibility even with hot liquor handling and mashing-in.  The off flavor and aroma manifests itself about a month after packaging as staling and cardboard.

Thanks for your input!

Cheers again!

Offline brewtime

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« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2006, 02:33:39 PM »
I have heard that you really have to abuse your mash and wort to get HSA to show up. Check out and listen to thier HSA experiment. you cant get it from dumping water in the mashtun if grains are not present. Did't you post the same question on another board? :)


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« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2006, 06:27:39 PM »
Yes, I did post on another forum.  Just trying to get as much info on this as I can.  Thanks for your info.  I'm going to continue the way I am and monitor closely as well as do as much research on this as I can.


Offline Andrewqld

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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2006, 03:23:29 AM »
To be honest I can't see how HSA could be a problem prior to the boil, I have seen on the net references to using 1/8th of a teaspoon of sodium metabisulphite in the mash to correct this problem, BUT I have never tried it and will never try it either. I am pretty sure that Sodium metabisulphite is used extensively in the wine industry as an anti-oxidant.


Offline Yeasty

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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2006, 12:37:54 AM »
Just rack into the MLT instead of pouring. (Can I get a "DUH!"? ::))
If you aren't good at syphoning, just suck; it's all preboil anyway.
Not sure if that's really the source of your problem, but if it is this will eliminate it. Also easier than lifting a bunch of hot water.
I'd take a close look at any other changes, if this is a problem that came with the equipment change. Is every little thing otherwise the same as the previous 5 years, and did you not have oxidization problems then?
Before I spent the $150 on a pump, I'd suggest $75 on a beer gun (assuming you have access to CO2) - which allows you to easily purge the bottle prior to and after filling.