• Welcome to the new forum! We upgraded our forum software with a host of new boards, capabilities and features. It is also more secure.
    Jump in and join the conversation! You can learn more about the upgrade and new features here.

Equipment profile for 5gal batches in Stainless Kegs (PICO False bottom)

Iueelyen

Apprentice
Joined
Sep 6, 2013
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
I switched over to a keg mash tun from a cooler and have not been able to come close to hitting my numbers since.  I suspect it has a lot to do with my equipment profile.  Does anyone have a solid equipment profile they can share with me for the following?

-5 gal batch
- Stainless Kegs
- 60 Min Boil (will take a 90 as well)
- PICO false bottom http://www.homebrewing.org/Stainless-Steel-PICO-style-keg-kettle-false-bottom-wsupports_p_1010.html

Thanks!
 
Which efficiency? mash, sparge or brewhouse? What brewhouse efficiency were you getting and what are you getting now?

The basic geometry of a cooler vs. a keg can have a huge impact on sparge efficiency. Simply, there is a lot more side surface area for water to channel down, instead of going through the grain bed. It's all going to come down to your techniques and losses.

Are you fly or batch sparging?

The instructions of this false bottom state that there is 2-3 gallons under it. This is HUGE. With 35 lbs of grain at 1.3:1, you still have >25% more water under the false bottom. When you click the "adjust for deadspace" box, BeerSmith adds the volume to the strike liquor and deducts it from the sparge. BS also adjusts the strike temp for the additional heat, too.

How much wort is left in the mash tun after sparge? I mean the amount you can't get from the spigot, not the inevitable slow drip you can get from an hour of letting the grain bed dry out after sparge.

The same issue may effect your kettle. What's your typical post boil volume? Is there unrecoverable wort, in addition to trub? Post boil volume - cooling % - measured fermenter volume = Loss to Trub & Chiller.
 
Thanks for responding.

What brewhouse efficiency were you getting and what are you getting now?
Well If I adjust the "Tot Efficiency to" 56% the OG will match up with what i'm really getting.  Sorry, I don't completely understand the efficiency differences. 

Are you fly or batch sparging?
I have a pump circulating during the mash and I fly sparge to rinse (168ish).  I also stir 2/3 times during the mash to try and prevent cold/hot spots in the mash.  I'm nailing the temperature (have several probes in different spots) .  About 8/10 minutes per gal to draw off to boil kettle. 

The instructions of this false bottom state that there is 2-3 gallons under it...
Yeah there's 2 gallons of water under the false bottom plus the 1.25q per lb of grain on top.    I think my false bottom plays a big part in here and i'm just not exactly sure to what degree.

How much wort is left in the mash tun after sparge?
I have the Lauter Tun Dead space set to .50g because that's really all that's left by the time I get my boil volume.

What's your typical post boil volume? 
I used to stop at 6.25ish but BS suggests 6.97/7.1ish.  I've stared checking bricks post boil and will do 90 min if it's really off to compensate.  I pull everything out of the pot when boil is done (my dip tube is centered).  I may leave 4 cups of wort in the chiller/hoses but that's mostly trube.  I do loose about 1.1/1.2 gal on a 60 min boil.  I average about 5.5 gal of wort in primary and end up with 4.75g when I keg/bottle. 


Thanks!
 
Iueelyen said:
Sorry, I don't completely understand the efficiency differences. 

Brewhouse efficiency is the percentage of total possible sugars that make it into the fermenter.

Mash efficiency has two parts: Conversion and Sparge.

Conversion is simply how much starch is changed into sugar. You can measure this by the gravity rise during the mash. Once the gravity stops rising for 15 minutes, you're done. You can then compare the gravity to a chart and see if you have 100% conversion. Less than that and you may have crush or pH issues.

Sparge efficiency is how well you rinse the grain of the converted sugar. This is measured after the sparge by adding a measured amount of water to the drained, spent grain bed, waiting a few minutes and measuring the gravity. This is compared to another chart. Simply, the lower the gravity, the more sugar ended up in the kettle.

We simplify sparge efficiency by looking for full conversion, then measuring the preboil kettle volume and gravity. This is a sum of both efficiencies simply termed Mash Efficiency.

I have a pump circulating during the mash and I fly sparge to rinse (168ish).  I also stir 2/3 times during the mash to try and prevent cold/hot spots in the mash.  I'm nailing the temperature (have several probes in different spots) .  About 8/10 minutes per gal to draw off to boil kettle. 

When you recirculate with a pump, you have to go even slower than you'd sparge. The enzyme activity creates CO2 gas and this helps fluff up the mash bed, allowing more water through the grain particles. When you recirculate, you're stripping that gas bed out, plus you're placing all of the dust and glucans on top of the grain bed. This has the effect of creating a blanket over the grain and making the pump compact the mash. The net effect is little space to let water sparge through.

I recommend that you try a mash with just one temperature, no recirculate until vourloff. Sparge at a rate that fills your kettle in about 75 minutes (up to 90); which would be at least 10 minutes per gallon. My bet is you see a 15 point jump in mash efficiency.

Yeah there's 2 gallons of water under the false bottom plus the 1.25q per lb of grain on top. I think my false bottom plays a big part in here and i'm just not exactly sure to what degree.

Indeed it does. As soon as you start the pump and recirculate, you are diluting the mash beyond the 1.25:1. Simply, all of the water is the mash ratio. This is reinforced by the fact that you recover most of this wort during sparge. So, a 15 lb mash at 1.25:1 would need 18.75 quarts water, but then you add another 8 quarts and the ratio climbs to 1.78:1. This isn't automatically bad, but it isn't helping conversion to be that dilute. When you do that math with a 10 lb grist, you get over 2:1 and that can impact conversion. I think you'll see more efficiency if you pull the ratio back to 1:1 for 10lb grists and up to 1.1:1 for >13 lb.

I pull everything out of the pot when boil is done (my dip tube is centered).  I may leave 4 cups of wort in the chiller/hoses but that's mostly trube. 

I'm not sure if this means what I'm reading.... Are you saying that you pull all of the hops and trub into your fermenter? That certainly improves your brewhouse efficiency, but at the expense of your beer. Hot break in the fermenter isn't a good idea.
 
brewfun said:
I'm not sure if this means what I'm reading.... Are you saying that you pull all of the hops and trub into your fermenter? That certainly improves your brewhouse efficiency, but at the expense of your beer. Hot break in the fermenter isn't a good idea.

How do you separate the trub from the wort while transferring to the fermenter?  I  use a stainless strainer, but am now thinking that I could be more conservative and (maybe using my autosiphon?) leave more behind in the kettle.
 
Mash efficiency has two parts: Conversion and Sparge.
Thanks for the explanation, Next brew day I will write all this stuff down and see if I can dial some of this in.  Where can one find these magic charts of which you speak?

When you recirculate with a pump, you have to go even slower than you'd sparge.
This is a tid bit I didn't know,  I was running the pump at about 25% throughput.  The other suggestions are good as well.  Thanks!

I think you'll see more efficiency if you pull the ratio back to 1:1 for 10lb grists and up to 1.1:1 for >13 lb.
I don't really understand what the ratios stand for/mean.  Is that 1 quart per lb up to 10 lbs and 1.1q over 13 lbs?  if so how do I adjust BS to reflect this in my equipment profile. 

I'm not sure if this means what I'm reading.... Are you saying that you pull all of the hops and trub into your fermenter
Arg...  neglected to include a bit of information...  This also answers jtoots
From the mash to the boil pot i hang the hose in my Stainless hops filter http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Hop-Spider-with-seam-welds_p_158.html
So I get a little filtering on the wort coming from the mash (stray husks).  All hops additions go into this and it does filter out a good bit.    I do still get some of the finer trash but the filter works surprisingly well.  I was considering getting a shorter dip tube and doing a whirlpool for a few minutes after flame out  to see if I can reduce the trube further (Discussion for another day). 
 
jtoots said:
How do you separate the trub from the wort while transferring to the fermenter?  I  use a stainless strainer, but am now thinking that I could be more conservative and (maybe using my autosiphon?) leave more behind in the kettle.

If your strainer is giving you reasonably clear wort into the fermenter, then it's fine. I use a whirlpool, which really helps compact the trub in the kettle. Yes, there is a little loss of wort, but with a homebrew kettle, you can always tilt it a little to get the last bit of clear wort.

Iueelyen said:
Where can one find these magic charts of which you speak?

I meant to include the image. see below.

This is from a very comprehensive article by Kai Troester found here http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency.

I don't really understand what the ratios stand for/mean.  Is that 1 quart per lb up to 10 lbs and 1.1q over 13 lbs?  if so how do I adjust BS to reflect this in my equipment profile.

Yes, that's the ratio.  Adjust it by double clicking the mash step and setting the ratio. You'll still add the foundation water under the screen. 
 

Attachments

  • First_wort_gravity.gif
    First_wort_gravity.gif
    38.5 KB · Views: 751
Thanks!

I also ran across this video which was helpful.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIoeFuNbDbU

I need to compile a check list for brew day and really spend some time recording things.  I have been simply using beersmith as a recipe book instead of a tool.
 
Back
Top