• Welcome to the new forum! We upgraded our forum software with a host of new boards, capabilities and features. It is also more secure.
    Jump in and join the conversation! You can learn more about the upgrade and new features here.

Direct Heat Mash-out

Pbfirish

Apprentice
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Equipment is finally set up and was considering a mash out just to see the difference.  My MLT is a converted keg with false bottom.  If do not have a pump.  I plan on raising the grain bed temp with direct fire

Two Questions:  While raising grain bed temp to 168 degrees, I am assuming I need to stir like mad to avoid scorching.  Would just a mash paddle do the trick to accomplish this circulation of the grain?  I mean if its a thick mash maybe adding 200 degree water and skip the direct heat is preferred?

How how long after reaching desired temp by fire and stirring would be recommended for the bed to settle again to begin vorlof and fly sparging? 

Or am I missing everything here on what to do and does anyone have any good advice to give this a shot

 
I stopped doing direct-fired mashing because I was concerned about uneven heating (denaturing a significant portion of the enzymes, which is not your issue) and scorching. Adding hot water will raise the temp without the danger of scorching.

I get better efficiency by raising the temp before running off.

I use a pump and find that the bed settles very quickly after I add my sparge water. Just start your vorlof when you're through stirring. You'll know the bed has settled when the wort runs clear.

Check this site: dennybrew.com
 
After the first attempt, i will be stopping as well.  Way too difficult to control the temp throughout and also not wise to drink too many home-brews and turn flame on over MLT wrapped in insulation.  I will be taking your advice and I thank you!

 
I use a metal mash tun with a false bottom. I have not had an issue with scorching the grain when I raise temp. The grain is kept an inch or so above the bottom of the pot by the false bottom. I do stir while raising temp, but nothing crazy. Just stir it once in awhile to get good mixture and get a good temp of what is going on. To me this is a lot easier than adding water at a certain temp to the mash, I add water to the mash once and then control temp with the burner. Usually it holds temp well enough between the temp change steps that the only time I add heat is when it is time to increase temp for the next step. I do have a concern that portions of the mash may get too hot too soon but once I was used to the system it has not been a problem.
 
Try decoction. You remove a third of the mash, bring it to a full boil for a few minutes, then mix it back in. It should stabilize round the desired temperature. That's what I do anyway. Doing it that way you don't increase the volume by adding more water.
 
Maine Homebrewer said:
Try decoction. You remove a third of the mash, bring it to a full boil for a few minutes, then mix it back in. It should stabilize round the desired temperature. That's what I do anyway. Doing it that way you don't increase the volume by adding more water.

Just the wort right? You're not boiling grain I'm assuming?
 
Just the wort right? You're not boiling grain I'm assuming?

I've always boiled both grain and liquid with good results.

Though Brad says to only draw off liquid when doing the mash out step.
http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/09/01/decoction-mashing-for-beer-recipes/
Finally, if you are using a decoction to achieve mash out temperature (usually around 178F target temperature), you need to draw only the liquid portion of the mash as mashing out with a large portion of grains can result in undesirable flavors.
 
Maine Homebrewer said:
Just the wort right? You're not boiling grain I'm assuming?

I've always boiled both grain and liquid with good results.

Though Brad says to only draw off liquid when doing the mash out step.
http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/09/01/decoction-mashing-for-beer-recipes/
Finally, if you are using a decoction to achieve mash out temperature (usually around 178F target temperature), you need to draw only the liquid portion of the mash as mashing out with a large portion of grains can result in undesirable flavors.

If you have full conversion and correct mash pH, there aren't going to be "undesirable flavors" from a decoction. If there were, the pilsner brewers would've never adopted the technique. If you were adding a lot of water to the grains, the pH could rise above 6 and allow for tannin extraction.

And, that temperature has to be a typo. I don't think any brewing resource suggests a 178F mashout temp. A 168F temperature is more often the target and more than sufficient to stop enzyme activity.
 
Back
Top