I think I can help. First, you have some terms confused. I'll answer your questions by giving you the definitions and the thoughts behind how they work.
Lautering: Slowly draining the mash tun into a small vessel and then pouring it back into the mash. This is done until the slowly
drained wort runs clear. What is happening is that the grain husks are settling over the holes in the bottom of the mash ton (filter
screen or perforated false bottom or tubing with holes in them) and keeping grains bits from getting through. Once the lautered wort
is running clear, it is then allowed to slowly drain into the boil kettle. I have found that lautering very slowly allows you to get a nice
filter bed of grain husks set up, so that your wort runs extremely clear.
Sparging: Sparging is the adding of water to the mash tun to rinse the sugars out of the grain. There are two main methods of
sparging.
Batch Sparging: Batch sparging is the process of adding water back to the grain, after it has been drained of the initial wort.
This allows you to rinse more sugar out of the grain. In batch sparging, you can just pour all of your sparge water in at one time,
stir really well to get the temperature of your mash even through the entire grain bed.
Continuous Sparging: Continuous sparging is a process of slowly sprinkling your rinse water over the mash, while draining the
wort slowly out at the same rate. The slower you do this, the more efficient your process is, thus allowing you to get more sugar
out of a set amount of grain.
Other things to take note of:
1. When draining your wort to the boil pot, you want your mash at about 168 degrees F. Above 168 F there is the potential to
dissolve unwanted grain components into the wort that will lead to some astringent flavors or graininess in your beer.
2. Below 168F, you will not dissolve as much sugar into the wort and your efficiency will suffer, causing you to need more grain to
reach a particular starting gravity.
3. Adding sparge water at exactly 168F won't get your mash up to 168F, but usually some place in the high 150 range to low 160
range, thus hurting your efficiency.
4. The actual temperature you need to reach a mash out temperature of 168F, can be anywhere from 185F to 212F, depending on
the amount of grain and water in the initial mash.
5. Anytime you are going to drain into your boil pot, you need to lauter first.
6. When pouring your lauter wort back into the mash tun, do it slowly, so as to not disturb your filter bed.