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Brewing Water Treatment...

bobo1898

Grandmaster Brewer
Master Brewer
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Jul 26, 2012
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Location
Chicago
After brewing for seven years, I'm finally getting into water treatment and managing my mash pH. I do understand that there is no simple answer to water. My questions are more about practice, than definitive solutions:

1. I've been using Chicago water straight out of the tap and I don't know if it's beneficial for me to move over to distilled or RO when it comes to treatment. Does anyone have a reason for starting with either of those over tap? I've definitely come to see that my darker brews are much better than my lighter beers. So I understand that the dark malts are probably getting me close to the correct pH range.

2.Is there a particular way to handle step mashing. For my system, I increase temperature by adding additional water. Should I be treating my water additions before each step, or complete the step and then measure my mash pH again and treat it accordingly? Or perhaps, is distilled water beneficial for this type of step mash?

3. I batch sparge. Should I be concerned with treating the sparge water? I'm sure it depends on the grain bill. I can't tell you the gravity of my second runnings but clearly they aren't as high as the first runnings. My question here is, should I treat the sparge before the addition, or should I measure the pH of the mash when the sparge water is added?

4. I've seen mixed opinions of the target mash pH range. Is the pH range of 5.2 to 5.5 at room temperature or mash temp? I noticed that EZ Water Calculator says it's 5.4 to 5.6 at room temp, but I see John Palmer only talk about pH being in the 5.2 range at room temp. I'm using a meter with ATC but I understand that (ATC) doesn't really matter.

Any help is appreciated!
 
Whoa. That's a lot of questions. :)

I'm not saying this is the best approach, but it's how I started and every time I learn and read more.

Step 1. Pour yourself a really good size beer and watch John Palmer's video on Relative Alkalinity
You will not understand it all, but it's well worth watching to pick up some general ideas.

Step 2. I'm certain you'll find on your municipal council's website (or similar) a typical water analysis. Bookmark that page.

Step 3. Time for another really good beer (and leave the rest of the bottle next to you 'cos you'll get thirsty half way thru), and watch the video again. You'll pick up a bit more of the detail this time.

By now, you'll have enough of an understanding to know which questions to ask for your own situation. Then have a go with the water profile tool in Beersmith. It's not going to suddenly make sense all at once, but bit by bit the light dimmer switch gets turned higher.

If you're happy with your dark ales, until you feel confident about getting and trying various brewing salts, try using about 2% of your grain bill with acidulated malt (sometimes called sour malt) in your lighter ales, and a tad less than that in your amber ales.

Water is the last piece in the jigsaw, and when you conquer it you will be making absolutely oustanding beer. After nearly 2 years, I reckon I'm nearly halfway there, and I can easily taste the improvement. Although most people probably pick things up faster than I.

Good luck and it really is worth the effort.
 
I would recommend using Brunwater, it's a free download off the internet and for a donation he will give you the newest version. Second choice would be Brewers Friend mash chemistry calculator. BeerSmith is a great program but is some what lacking when it comes to water chemistry.
 
I've not seen Palmer's water video, but considering the quality of "How to Brew" it's time for me to do that.

+1 for recommending Brunwater (https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/)! I consider my donation to Bru'nWater to be some of the best money I've spent on brewing. Download it and read the instructions and water knowledge sections - twice.
 
antiphile said:
If you're happy with your dark ales, until you feel confident about getting and trying various brewing salts, try using about 2% of your grain bill with acidulated malt (sometimes called sour malt) in your lighter ales, and a tad less than that in your amber ales.

Yeah I've heard of this too. Is 2% pretty much the limit? I guess I'm asking how far you can push it before you start imparting a sourness? Someone at my LHBS said that 1 pound will bring the pH down a point. I haven't researched that number.

I have seen Palmer's video before and it is good. I will revisit this again. Thanks for the feedback.

ihikeut said:
I would recommend using Brunwater, it's a free download off the internet and for a donation he will give you the newest version. Second choice would be Brewers Friend mash chemistry calculator. BeerSmith is a great program but is some what lacking when it comes to water chemistry.

I've definitely visited the site. I've been reading the water knowledge page for a while (a lot to take in). Will definitely send a donation to the guy for the "full" or up-to-date version.
 
You can go higher if you want, but I'd suggest you start slow and check with your pH meter about midway through the mash.

Just to give some background. I don't have a particularly hard water out of the tap, but the pH usually varies between 8.2 and 8.3. Even before making salt additions for beer styles, I found 2.0 to 2.2% of acidulated malt (combined with the rest of the grain), was sufficient to get the mash pH down to at least 5.4 even for pale ales.

So I'd reckon to start with 2%, and if it's not close to what you're after, adjust it a little on the next batch.
 
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