I looked this kit up online and found the following instructions. I've attached what I found.
You probably have this exact copy in your kit. I would read the instructions completely before starting, so that you have a good idea of the process. You can add half of the Malt extract at the beginning or only half, but since your kit comes with only one can (and because it's such a light beer, you won't see a lot of benefit to adding half later with this recipe.
One suggestion is to use the largest boil pot that you have, so that you boil as much water as you able to. I would also suggest that you find your local home brew supply shop and pick up a bottle of Irish Moss and a bottle of Yeast Nutrient. The Irish Moss will help you bind up the hot break (proteins), so that you end up with a clearer beer in the end. The Yeast Nutrient will give the yeast some much needed nutrients that are not present in beer wort. This will help them build their cell walls prior to getting to the work of converting the sugars into alcohol. The instructions on their use is on the bottle. They are both added toward then end of the boil
Another suggestion is to either have a spray bottle handy to mist the surface of the boiling wort to slow it down when it tries to boil over, and/or get some FermCap S at your home brew supply shop and add the proper amount just before the boil commences. I have found FermCap S is wonderful at preventing boil overs! This is especially important on Electric Stove Tops, because the heat doesn't go away with Electric, like it does with gas stove tops.
If this were my kit, I would do it as follows:
1. Follow the instructions for preparing your cans of extract.
2. Bring as much water as you can to a boil.
3. Turn off the heat and then carefully stir in the LME, Corn Sugar and the Rice Syrup Solids until they are completely dissolved. You do not need to reserve
any corn sugar for bottling, because the ingredient list includes 5 ounces of bottling sugar.
4. Once you have all three of these dissolved, turn the heat back on and bring it up to a slow rolling boil. At this point, add your hops. (While you're at the
home brew supply store, pick up a hop back to put them in (you don't want them in your beer if you can help it.) You should also add the FermCap S at
this time, if you picked some up.
5. Immediately set a timer for 60 minutes. I know what you're thinking. The instructions say to boil for 45 minutes. You'll get a better beer by boiling for a full
one hour and you will get better extraction of your hop bitterness, by having them in the boil for a full hour.
6. At 15 minutes left in the boil, add your Irish Moss. At 10 minutes left in the boil, add your yeast nutrient.
7. At 60 minutes, turn off the heat, then lift up the bag of hops and let it drain. Do not squeeze it out, because your hands are not sanitary and you'll be
introducing contaminants, that you don't want in your sterilized wort. This is a good time to talk about "Sanitation".
7 (b). Sanitation is the most important thing when it comes to making good beer. If you limit the chances of bacteria getting a foothold in your beer, you
vastly increase your chances of making a good beer. I suggest you pick up a small bottle of StarSan and mix it according to the instructions (1 ounce
per 5 gallons of water. StarSan is a "no rinse" sanitizer, so once you rinse something in it, do not rinse it off with water. Use the tool (spoon
maybe), fermenter, airlock, etc., with the StarSan on it. It will be really bubbly and foamy. Don't worry about this, the bubbles won't hurt your beer
or the yeast. Do not fear the bubbles. Anything that touches your wort after the boil should be first rinsed with StarSan solution, or you risk
contaminating your beer. Once you're ready to bottle your brew, your bottling want, auto siphon, racking hoses, bottles and cops should be rinsed
with StarSan solution before using them.
8. Put your brew pot in your kitchen sink. Make sure you have the plug in, so that you can put ice water around it. Now use your "Sanitized" spoon to stir your
wort. This will move the hot liquid around and take it next to the sides of the boil pot, where it can dissipate heat through the sides of the boil pot. "DO
NOT" splash the wort while you're stirring until it gets down to 100 F. Oxygen is bad for your beer at higher temperatures than 100 F. It binds with parts
of the wort at temperatures higher than 100 F., and will create cardboard flavors. However, once you get down to 100 F, oxygen is good! The oxygen will
be free in your wort, where the yeast need it to help build their cell walls and make good beer.
9. Once you get your wort down to about 90 F., you can put it into your fermenter and add enough top up water to get to 5 gallons. You can now take a gravity
reading. Your kit states that your starting gravity should be about 1.038. You don't have to be careful when adding the wort to your fermenter, because
oxygen is good at this point, so splashing it actually an advantage for the yeast.
10. The cold top up water, should get your temperature down below 70 F.
11. You can now add your yeast. The instructions do not say to re-hydrate your yeast, but I would re-hydrate it. It won't kill your beer, it's just that re
hydrated yeast performs better. When yeast is re-hydrated in boiled and cooled (down to 75F) water it will swell up the yeast and make it more difficult for
the sugars and other stuff in beer wort to get inside of the yeast cell. Although sugars is there food, it is also a bad thing for it to get inside of the yeast,
without them having consumed it. It's a contaminant that they have to get rid of, which stresses them, and makes it more difficult for them to make good
beer. Just put a little bit of water in a microwave safe glass container and heat it up until it boils. Let it cool to 75 F, and stir in your yeast with a sanitized
spoon. When you add your yeast to your wort, there is no need to stir it in, despites what the directions say.
12. Affix your sanitized lid, if you using a bucket fermenter and your sanitized air lock.
13. You will get a Krausen starting to foam up on top of your beer in about 12 hours. If you don't have a lot of head space, you might notice this "Krausen" is
going up into your air lock and plugging it up. With a large enough bucket fermenter, there is usually enough head space that you don't have to worry
about it. If you used FermCap S during the boil, you probably won't have enough "krausen" to get up into your airlock! FermCap S keeps boil overs from
happening and calms down the krausen too! I think it's a great product. However, you do have krausen getting up into your airlock, you can remove the
airlock, clean it, sanitize it and put it back on. You could also take off the airlock and put a "blow out" hose in the hole that the airlock fits into. Put a
small container of StarSan solution next to your fermenter and put the other end of the blow out hose into it. This will create a barrier a path for the
krauses to leave the fermenter and go into the bucket. By having the end of the blow out hose in the solution, you still have a barrier between your
fermenting beer and the atmosphere.
I hope you found this helpful. If you have any more questions, I'm sure we'll be able to assist you!
Good luck.
