• Welcome to the new forum! We upgraded our forum software with a host of new boards, capabilities and features. It is also more secure.
    Jump in and join the conversation! You can learn more about the upgrade and new features here.

BioFine Clear & Isinglass

CR

Grandmaster Brewer
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
287
Reaction score
0
There an MSDS sheet available for Biofine Clear
http://www.yesmsds.com/chemicals2/cas/msds/brewerssupplygroup_com_Biofine%20Clear%20A3%205B06808%20MSDS/index.asp

It's supposed to be a VEGAN  substitute for Isinglass
It says it handles protein haze. 
Question::  Does it strip live yeast from the beer making it necessary to add more yeast before bottling?
 
Most fining agents will strip anything they can attach to including yeast. It would be advisable to add more yeast.

Cheers
Preston
 
When adding more yeast ( a thing I have not prior done)  Does one pre ferment the yeasts in DME to deprive them of  oxygen or just up end a vial of yeast into the fermenter?
There is No chance of Using  CO2 injection VIA the racking arm  to introduce it, as I don't have a CO2 tank.

I just got off the horn with the people at MidWest who say it'll operate like Isinglass  stripping as much away as it can.
I only used one tablespoon  in a 6 gallon batch. So there's a shot it won't have got it all. But I'm thinking I should add a vial of WLP011  at bottling anyway just  to be sure.
 
I would pitch the yeast in (Liquid not dry). I don't know that you will need the entire vial for what you are doing, that may depend on the beer in question. I think we talked about pitching rates for bottling before, but cant remember what the outcome was. I do this for some of my Belgians, but they are so big to begin with I normally pitch the entire vial and don't worry about it.

Cheers
Preston
 
There's a Champagne yeast  Lalvin EC-1118 that's cheap and neutral. I was thinking of re-hydrating some of that and pitching it with the bottling sugar. 

Of course the vial of WLP won't have a pile of oxygen in it so maybe I'm better off that way?
 
As long as you boil your water for 20 min prior to proofing, you should be fine. I would not proof your yeast and bottling sugar together. A vial is what I would suggest, just because it is easy.

Cheers
Preston
 
well I'd not put the sugar into it until after it was re-hydrated.
I read somewhere out there on the internet-S that the little dessicated yeasties can't effectively regulate what gets past their cell membranes until  they are re-hydrated and back to life.

20 minutes? That's how long it takes to knock the air out of the water?
I got a twin stage Sergeant Welsh rotary vacuum pump that can get down to the molecular flow regime.  I could pull vacuum the water for an hour or two.  Then boil it and then  park it next to my SVS subwoofer on loud. 


The vial is appealing.
 
EC 1118 is aggressive and goes quite dry.  I'm not sure I'd use that one for bottling since you couldn't really stop it. 

A vial of fresh liquid yeast seems easiest and you might do well to add just half of it for bottling, and use the second half to begin a starter for something else.  Half a vial should be able to consume 4 oz of corn sugar. 
 
CR said:
20 minutes? That's how long it takes to knock the air out of the water?

Considering the Molecular makeup of water, I don't think so. The 20 min is more of a guideline for killing buggers that may contaminate your beer.

I got a twin stage Sergeant Welsh rotary vacuum pump that can get down to the molecular flow regime.  I could pull vacuum the water for an hour or two.  Then boil it and then  park it next to my SVS subwoofer on loud.

Good Lord that's overkill~! (-:

Cheers
Preston
 
Back
Top