Okay, it would have been the changing of the 'Tot Efficiency' ('Brewhouse Efficiency' or Efficiency into Fermenter) from 72% to 78% that caused your problems so that one's solved.
If your volume was not being measured correctly before, this will give you inaccurate efficiency readings so you might make some new discoveries with your newly calibrated kettle
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Assuming your volume and gravity measurements are correct, efficiency is not affected greatly* by things like boil off or adding too much water at the beginning. For example if you accidentally added an extra gallon of water to your mash and sparge, you would end up with more wort but at a lower gravity so this balances out. (*There is a small effect. For example, if we did add an extra gallon then we'd end up with a slightly higher efficiency as we will have 'rinsed' the grains with more water.)
Brewhouse Efficiency is simply the mash efficiency calculation with 'Loss to Trub and Chiller' removed from the volume part of the equation.
So to get your 'Brewhouse Efficiency' figure set correctly, record your measured mash efficiency and 'Loss to Trub and Chiller' over say 5 brews. Take lots of readings as these act as double checks. For example...
Mash Efficiency can be taken either pre-boil or post-boil. So, do both on these 5 brews. On average, you should find, that these end up very close. A single brew's figures should not be relied upon as many things can go wrong on a single brew - e.g. the incorrectly weighed grain we talked about.
You can then do a 'Brewhouse Efficiency' reading by measuring your volume and gravity into the fermenter.
Once you have these averages of efficiencies and 'Loss to Trub and Chiller' you will be able to determine a fairly reliable 'Brewhouse Efficiency' though some systems are less repeatable from brew to brew than others.
I'll attach a spreadsheet here that you can play with to see how you can use your mash efficiency and loss to trub and chiller to work out your Brewhouse Efficiency and vice versa. Notice how if you set 'Loss to Trub and Chiller' as zero then mash efficiency = brewhouse efficiency? So the relationship is simple but you can run into problems if you go changing your 'Loss to Trub and Chiller' in BeerSmith2 without also changing your Brewhouse Efficiency so be careful! I still sometimes forget to do this
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I promised Brad that I would write a few notes on this and post this spreadsheet up but I'm still fine-tuning a few things. I'll get there eventually but I hope this helps in the meantime.
Cheers,
Pat