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Sparging

LAdrian

Apprentice
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
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Location
UK
I have just started AG afer a few years of using extract, and was wondering if sparging was worth the effort.

I don't have anything other than a watering can.  This is creating a haze in the remaining wort, so I did not use it.  The beer turned out OK.

The mail order supplier I use has rotating sparge arms from 7" to 10", but not sure how to use these, so I will give him a call as they may only work with the tun's he sells.

If anyone can help me out

How efficient are these arms?
Is there a better process?
Do I re-mash instead?
or live without sparging?
 
There are a couple things you can do:

1. Batch Sparging.  This is probably what you are refering to as re-mashing.  Once you have mashed out, recirculate your wort until it is flowing fairly clear then slowly drain into your kettle.  Next, add enough hot water (aprox. 168 F) to your mash tun to complete your  required amount for your boil.  Let it settle for 5 or 10 minutes, recirculate until it is running fairly clear and slowly drain into your kettle and you are done.

2. Running Sparge.  This is done after you mash out and recirculate.  You simply add hot water gently to the mash tun at aprox. the same rate as you are draining into your kettle.  The trick here is to make sure your grain bed is covered with about 1 inch of water while you are doing this.  You do not need a rotating sparge arm ( in fact, mine stopped rotating about the third time using it).  You can accomplish the same thing with a hose or pvc pipe with small holes drilled into it.

3. No Sparge.  This is completely exceptable.  You just have to add water to your kettle for your boil after you drain your mash tun.  The down side to this is your efficiency will be lower (which means you will have use more grain to achieve your OG in most reciepes).

I have either made beer or tasted beer made by all three processes and they are all capable of producing good beer.
 
Thanks for the advice IBU,

I have been doing the "Running Sparge" and that is breaking up the mash bed, creating a cloudy haze.

I will try "batch sparging" next time or not even bother.

I have based my mashing at 75% efficiency, the capacity of my mash tun is 50 litres (10 gal) and I am only making 30 litre batches, for ending up in my keg and a few extra bottles.   My actual efficiency is highter.

thanks again.

 
if you are fly sparging and disturbing the grain bed (too much) try a collander on top of the grain bed, works great, also try a plate or something just to take the force of the pour.

Fred
 
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