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electric biab setup

I brew 10 gallon all grain batches in my electric kettle using a 2400 watt element.  I use a rheostat to control the power to the low density element.  At the 80% setting my system brings 11.4 gallons of 150 degree wort to boil in just over 15 minutes without scorching.  I maintain a good rolling boil at about 60%.  I do not have a problem with carmelization; able to brew cream ales with no issues.  I'll never go back to LP.  Using electric allows me to brew inside in a comfortable / controlled environment.
 
I use a hybrid BIAB/HERMS system with the heat exchanger in a large electric coffee pot. It works great, but requires that I haul the wort outside to boil with gas.

Brewing inside, no worries about running out of gas, no trips to get gas; it all sounds good. I'm ready to start work on a similar system. How did you install the heating element (specifically, how do you get a tight seal between the heating element and the curved side of the kettle), what rheostat did you use, where did you get the parts, etc?

Thanks in advance for any info you can provide to let me plagiarize your system!

Dan
 
the rheostat is the key to that operation then. I have been thinking about electric it sure would be nice to brew in the basement with these new england winters . As for getting the element mounted I think the way to go is welding a 1" stainless coupling on the pot to screw the element in
 
I had a welding shop install a 1" SS female coupler about 1" off of the bottom of my brew kettle.  The rheostat is the key component of the electric setup; particularly because I was using 220 electric. My setup was designed by an electric engineer, but I had to build my own circuit board.  Check out MoreBeer for their rheostat setups.  The MoreBeer option is a lot less complicated, but more expensive.  If I can figure out how to download pics to this site, I'll post a few. 
cpankonien... didn't mean to hijack your post. 
 
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