Mike-
I STRONGLY recommend using EZWater 3.0 vs. Beersmith. Beersmith is OKAY. But EZ water does the job better, and calculates things you need to know that beersmith does not (mash pH).
Dont' be bummed...its all about the learning, right!?
Mike "Tasty" McDole...long standing member of The Brewing Network...multi-award winning homebrewer. He's one of the best homebrewers in the country.
All is not lost for your existing beers...you can actually add CaSO4 directly to a beer and see how it improves the beer. Kinda like adding table salt to a plate of food. This way you can try it and see how it changes the taste of the beer. If it gets better you know you are on the right track.
In theory you could even calculate your additions and scale to a whole batch.
I see a few issues with your water:
Calcium is okay, but on the low side. 50ppm is really minimum, closer to 100 is better.
HC03 is pretty high. This will make all light colored beers (less than 10 SRM...maybe even 15) difficult to make due to pH issues. Further, low calcium and high alkalinity will cause your mash ph to be high...5.75 (vs. 5.5) for a typical IIPA recipe. Further, this will raise the pH during the sparge and risk extracting tannins late in the sparge. Finally, the end result is a high boil pH...which can make hops taste wrong.
Sodium is pretty high, too. My water has 24 ppm, for reference.
The SO4-S isn't the same as S04, multiply by 3 to convert....129. S04:Cl = 1.65:1. That's pretty balanced. Just fine for your average beer, but low for a hoppy beer.
You have plenty of magnesium, so you don't need any epsom salts. You can just focus on Gypsum and CaCl2.
I think you will want to dilute your water with distilled water to reduce the amount of sodium and bicarbonates. Then add back CaCl2 and/or CaSO4 to raise calcium and control the Cl:SO4 ratio. Finally, consider using an acid (phosphoric or lactic or some of each) to help hold your pH down.
