Slurk, I dont have a chill plate so I cant comment on that. you want hi-temp silicone tubing (get the white, not the yellow) from kettle ball valve to chiller. you can use clear tubing at the chiller exit port. For clear tubing use beverage tubing when you can....its more flexible and doesn't have memory. use ball valves at the wort in & out and at the cooling water in & out to control the flow of both. The most effective valve is at cold wort out...you can slow your outflow to make the wort stay in contact with your chilling water longer. after you run your sanitizer through for a few minutes you can shut that valve to trap your sanitizer inside the chiller till you're ready for the main event. If your using unchilled groundwater and it gets you where you need to be then you dont need a valve at cooling in port, just let her rip. I have really warm groundwater so I fill a huge cooler with water and block ice (frozen plastic coffee containers) while sparging so its ice cold when you're ready to chill. Drop a small submersible fountain pump in the cooler and pump the ice water thru the chiller. My setup requires a lot of switching tubing. Theres plenty of fancy fittings, disconnects, etc on the market. I use hose clamps. Just fit a lightweight lithium drill with a nut driver style tip and you dont have to deal with the slot screwdriver. I tried gravity feed but it put my mashtun 6+ feet in the air with my equipment size and I wasn't crazy about building or buying a tree. If you stay with gravity feed, dont engineer your set up for the minimum height between transfers. You will want as much as you can get. If you get a March pump everything stays at eye level or below. The first day you brew with a pump you will kick yourself in the butt for not getting it sooner. You can use it to pump strike water to mashtun, sanitizer thru chiller, hot wort to chiller, then boiling water thru chiller for cleanup