Saint,
I'm not familiar with your sanitizer, but most sanitizers used on glassware that people will drink from are not so aggressive as to poison a five-gallon batch.
Your gravity came out low and is already in the fermenter, so for this batch all you can do is tell people you modified it to be a session beer. For future batches check the gravity going into the boil kettle; Brewers Best may have made a mistake in measuring your ingredients. I've also had ingredients scurry behind other objects on my brewing surface and hide there for days. Measuring your pre-boil gravity will tell you if you need to add water to bring your gravity down or boil longer to raise it. BeerSmith will allow you to recalculate on the fly. If your pre-boil gravity is low and you anticipate you will need to extend the boil, you'll be able to adjust your hop additions also. Check your gravity and volume a couple of times throughout the boil to help you with your course corrections.
The lack of fermentation may not be a lack of fermentation. The CO2 may be escaping around a lid that isn't fully sealed, you may not have enough water in your air lock to show bubbles, or there may be some other novel way CO2 is escaping. Check your specific gravity, it will tell you if the wort is fermenting. Just use good sanitizing procedures when you dip into the beer. If you're fermenting in a bottling bucket (with a spigot on the bottom) use the spigot to take your sample. If it really isn't fermenting you can either pitch more yeast (assuming you have it or can get it) or you can raise the temperature and hope the yeast you added initially will take off. The Brewers Best instructions I found on-line don't specify how much yeast is in the packet they supply, but I assume it's enough to ferment the batch without needing a growth phase. I say that because they don't mention aerating your wort. Yeast need lots of oxygen initially (and only initially) to support growth and reproduction. The only reason (I know of) not to aerate would be that you're pitching enough cells to ferment the beer without needing to reproduce. Please note: there is a long and growing list of things I don't know.
I don't think you need to rack to a secondary even if you raise the temperature to ferment it as an ale. I routinely let my ales and lagers sit in the primary for a month. Let it sit on the settled yeast for a month to finish its magic. The beer will be happier. The question of when or if to transfer to a secondary is debated, but it appears an increasing number of experienced brewers are moving toward not using a secondary. Transfer from the primary directly to your carboy or another clean, sanitized bucket and use it as your bottling bucket.
Most important suggestion: If you haven't already, read John Palmer's How to Brew. It's available on-line at http://www.howtobrew.com/. Please note that the on-line version is not the most current, and John's recommendations have evolved in some areas.
Second-most important suggestion: use brewing software to calculate and plan your brewing, even with a kit. I like Beersmith, but there are spreadsheets available that will work if you don't mind the work.
It's amazing how good some of my beers taste (to me) in spite of the bizarre difficulties and inexplicable mistakes I encounter. Relax, don't worry, have a home brew (or if you don't have any home brew yet, have a good craft brew).
In addition I have an extra fridge when needed.