I decided to give this a try yesterday and found it difficult to be precise in retrieving the amount of (mostly) grain for the first and second decoction. My recipe called for 8 quarts for the first, and 4 for the second. The first thing I noticed was a definite change to a darker color when I brought the first decoction to a boil. To be honest, I was nervous about dumping the boiled material back into the tun ... thinking that it could cause a nasty burn. I managed to be within range of temperatures at rest. I was surprised that the wort seemed more cloudy than a single infusion mash when filling the kettle. The Irish Red recipe only called for a 60-minute boil, but I was very pleased with the clarity AFTER the boil (which is one of the main reasons why I decided to try decocting in the first place.) The process adds a half hour or more to the brew day. I'm curious to know if anyone has become a total convert of the process.
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Looking for Decoction Advice
- Thread starter MikeinRH
- Start date
K
KernelCrush
Try a spagetti stainer or colander to capture your grain. scoop in liquid to taste.
I used my ladle and pretty much faked it. I think the most important aspect of the process is heating/boiling an amount of grain so it can get the balance of what remains in the tun to a given target temperature. If you don't hit your target temps, so what?
K
KernelCrush
On single infusions temps are a no brainer. Gave up on step temp mashing in a cooler. Just cant get anywhere close. Decoction temps have been closer than step infusions.
Maine Homebrewer
Grandmaster Brewer
I do single-step decoction on every batch. I don't measure. I just eyeball a third. Maybe a little more if my mash temp is under 150. As long as it brings everything up to 165-170 I'm happy. I'm usually happy.
Slurk
Grandmaster Brewer
MikeinRH said:
- I have used decoction for my pilsners in the past. I abandoned it for a couple of years ago due to the time consuming process and went over to a somehow faster 3 step temperature mashing process. However, since I like crispy dry pilsners, I started experimenting with 2 parallel batches with different temperatures during the mash in order to get max alpha- and beta-amylase activity for each of the separate batches. I am considering it as a kind of a pre-step before mixing both batches together again and doing the next mash step.
- The other thing interesting to my opinion with your post is that I have the same experience as you: the clarity after the boil is better.
R, Slurk
As you've probably seen from some of my previous posts, clarity has always been a problem and goal for me. I was also intrigued by Brad's email this morning regarding BIAB. The process definitely seems to be a way to cut time off a brew day, but I wonder how BIAB can possibly be better than allowing natural filtration from the grain bed (from a typical mash/sparge process). I guess you never know until you give it a try.
Slurk
Grandmaster Brewer
MikeinRH said:
Yes, I know. We still share that problem
You are referring to Brad regarding BIAB. I can't find it on the forum neither in my mail box.
R, Slurk
Maine Homebrewer
Grandmaster Brewer
Pretty much. What I vary is mash temperature and crystal/carapils to control the body. Whether I'm making an IPA or a light pilsner, I use single step decoction. It just simplifies things for me.
Starting temp depends on what I'm making. If I'm making an IPA I'll mash round 155 or so, and ten degrees cooler if I'm making a light pilsner.
Like my chef in cooking school would always say in response to my asking how long to cook something: Until it's done.
I do an iodine test for every batch. In IPA mashed at 155 can convert in 45min or less, and I've had stubborn pilsners take as long as two hours to pass. In general the test just confirms what I already know, but on the occasions when the test fails I'm glad I checked.
Slurk:
Brew-In-A-Bag (BIAB)
Brew in a Bag (BIAB) all grain beer brewing is a new method for all grain brewing that originated in Australia. BIAB is an inexpensive way to for homebrewers to transition to all grain or partial mash brewing. Brewers also enjoy brew in a bag methods for the shorter setup, brewing and cleanup times.
Also see my podcast episode on BIAB here.
The concept behind "brew in a bag" is to move to all grain brewing with minimal extra equipment, setup or time. The BIAB method involves using a grain bag set in the brew pot to mash the grains, followed by a sparge step where the bag is removed from the pot and the remaining wort is boiled as you would any other beer. While less efficient than traditional methods, you can easily compensate for this by using a little more grain in the mash. (Ref and Image Credit: BN Article on BIAB by Thirsty Boy)
Brew in a Bag Equipment
For an all grain batch, you need a full size (batch size plus a few gallons) boil pot and ideally a propane burner to quickly boil it. For partial mash brewers, a smaller pot (3-4 gallons) is acceptable as you will not be mashing or boiling the full size of your batch. The brew in a bag method eliminates the need for a mash tun, hot liquor pot, or lauter tun.
The only other equipment needed (aside from normal extract brewing equipment) is a large grain bag. The bag should be made of a mesh material and sewn together like a great pillowcase. It should be large enough to cover the entire inside of the boil pot, and have a drawstring or tie at the top to allow the bag to be closed.
The bag will line the boil pot and closed to hold the grains during the mash. At the end of the mash the bag is slowly withdrawn and the remaining wort is boiled, cooled and fermented as any beer would be.
The Brew in a Bag Method
Brew in a bag is usually done using a single step infusion mash, the same profile most all grain brewers use. This involves preheating the water in the mash tun to a predetermined temperature before adding the grains. In a major departure from traditional methods, the entire pre-boil volume of water is used for the mash.
In BeerSmith, you can do this by choosing a single infusion, no mash out mash profile and then setting the first mash step volume (choose details next to the mash profile, then double click on the first step) equal to your boil volume.
You can also use the infusion tool to calculate initial strike additions, setting the strike volume equal to the initial boil volume for your batch. For a partial mash BIAB, less water is typically used - but again it is equal to your starting boil volume.
Once the strike water is heated to the appropriate starting temperature, the bag is added to line the edge of the boil pot, and the grains are added. Done appropriately, you should come very close to your target temperature for mash conversion - usually between 148 and 156 F.
Once you reach your target mash temperature, it is best to cover your pot and maintain the temperature as steady as possible for the next 30-60 minutes while the complex sugars in the grain are converted to simple ones. You can also wrap the pot in towels to help maintain temperature.
After the mash is complete you have the option of heating the mash slightly to a mash out temperature (around 168F). If you are planning to heat the pot while the bag is still in it, you do need some kind of screen or false bottom at the bottom to prevent the bag from getting burned or melted by direct heat from the burner. For BIAB, the mash out aids overall extraction efficiency when you remove the bag.
Finally, slowly lift the grain bag out of the pot and let it drain. Once the bag has drained you can empty it, spray it down and clean it off for reuse on your next batch of beer.
From this point forward, the wort left in your boil pot can be boiled, cooled and fermented just as you would any batch of beer. If brewing all grain, simply boil the wort with hop additions, cool it and transfer to your fermenter. For partial mash, you can add your extract, hops and continue to brew.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Some of the advantages of the brew in a bag method include:
Equipment Cost - If you have a large brew pot already, the only additional equipment needed is a bag, which you can make yourself if you have access to a sewing machine.
Simplicity - Brew in a bag lets you move to all grain or partial mash brewing in a simple way, and the method itself is very simple to set up and execute, even with limited space.
The limitations include:
Batch Size - All of the grains have to fit in the bag, and the bag has to be lifted out without breaking, so this does place some limitations on high gravity batches. However with a properly stitched grain bag, double batches are possible though a pulley may be desirable.
Efficiency - Since BIAB is a full volume method, you will lose a few percent efficiency - overall batch efficiency is usually lower than with fly sparge methods. However, this can easily be compensated by adding a little more grain to the batch and formulating your recipes with the appropriate lower brewhouse efficiency estimate. Experienced BIAB brewers have reported efficiency as high as 80% in some cases.
High Water to Grain Ratio - Mashing at a high water to grain ratio, as is the case here, results in lower levels of beta-amalyse, resulting in more dextrines in the finished beer. This can translate to higher body than desired at the high end of the mash temperature range (156-158F). Conversely, the thin mash also works poorly at the low end (148-150F), creating dry beer. In general BIAB works best in the mid mash temperature range (150-156F). Finally, if you are brewing a beer high in non-barley adjuncts such as flaked wheat, BIAB may not be the best option. (Ref: BN Article on BIAB)
Brew-In-A-Bag (BIAB)
Brew in a Bag (BIAB) all grain beer brewing is a new method for all grain brewing that originated in Australia. BIAB is an inexpensive way to for homebrewers to transition to all grain or partial mash brewing. Brewers also enjoy brew in a bag methods for the shorter setup, brewing and cleanup times.
Also see my podcast episode on BIAB here.
The concept behind "brew in a bag" is to move to all grain brewing with minimal extra equipment, setup or time. The BIAB method involves using a grain bag set in the brew pot to mash the grains, followed by a sparge step where the bag is removed from the pot and the remaining wort is boiled as you would any other beer. While less efficient than traditional methods, you can easily compensate for this by using a little more grain in the mash. (Ref and Image Credit: BN Article on BIAB by Thirsty Boy)
Brew in a Bag Equipment
For an all grain batch, you need a full size (batch size plus a few gallons) boil pot and ideally a propane burner to quickly boil it. For partial mash brewers, a smaller pot (3-4 gallons) is acceptable as you will not be mashing or boiling the full size of your batch. The brew in a bag method eliminates the need for a mash tun, hot liquor pot, or lauter tun.
The only other equipment needed (aside from normal extract brewing equipment) is a large grain bag. The bag should be made of a mesh material and sewn together like a great pillowcase. It should be large enough to cover the entire inside of the boil pot, and have a drawstring or tie at the top to allow the bag to be closed.
The bag will line the boil pot and closed to hold the grains during the mash. At the end of the mash the bag is slowly withdrawn and the remaining wort is boiled, cooled and fermented as any beer would be.
The Brew in a Bag Method
Brew in a bag is usually done using a single step infusion mash, the same profile most all grain brewers use. This involves preheating the water in the mash tun to a predetermined temperature before adding the grains. In a major departure from traditional methods, the entire pre-boil volume of water is used for the mash.
In BeerSmith, you can do this by choosing a single infusion, no mash out mash profile and then setting the first mash step volume (choose details next to the mash profile, then double click on the first step) equal to your boil volume.
You can also use the infusion tool to calculate initial strike additions, setting the strike volume equal to the initial boil volume for your batch. For a partial mash BIAB, less water is typically used - but again it is equal to your starting boil volume.
Once the strike water is heated to the appropriate starting temperature, the bag is added to line the edge of the boil pot, and the grains are added. Done appropriately, you should come very close to your target temperature for mash conversion - usually between 148 and 156 F.
Once you reach your target mash temperature, it is best to cover your pot and maintain the temperature as steady as possible for the next 30-60 minutes while the complex sugars in the grain are converted to simple ones. You can also wrap the pot in towels to help maintain temperature.
After the mash is complete you have the option of heating the mash slightly to a mash out temperature (around 168F). If you are planning to heat the pot while the bag is still in it, you do need some kind of screen or false bottom at the bottom to prevent the bag from getting burned or melted by direct heat from the burner. For BIAB, the mash out aids overall extraction efficiency when you remove the bag.
Finally, slowly lift the grain bag out of the pot and let it drain. Once the bag has drained you can empty it, spray it down and clean it off for reuse on your next batch of beer.
From this point forward, the wort left in your boil pot can be boiled, cooled and fermented just as you would any batch of beer. If brewing all grain, simply boil the wort with hop additions, cool it and transfer to your fermenter. For partial mash, you can add your extract, hops and continue to brew.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Some of the advantages of the brew in a bag method include:
Equipment Cost - If you have a large brew pot already, the only additional equipment needed is a bag, which you can make yourself if you have access to a sewing machine.
Simplicity - Brew in a bag lets you move to all grain or partial mash brewing in a simple way, and the method itself is very simple to set up and execute, even with limited space.
The limitations include:
Batch Size - All of the grains have to fit in the bag, and the bag has to be lifted out without breaking, so this does place some limitations on high gravity batches. However with a properly stitched grain bag, double batches are possible though a pulley may be desirable.
Efficiency - Since BIAB is a full volume method, you will lose a few percent efficiency - overall batch efficiency is usually lower than with fly sparge methods. However, this can easily be compensated by adding a little more grain to the batch and formulating your recipes with the appropriate lower brewhouse efficiency estimate. Experienced BIAB brewers have reported efficiency as high as 80% in some cases.
High Water to Grain Ratio - Mashing at a high water to grain ratio, as is the case here, results in lower levels of beta-amalyse, resulting in more dextrines in the finished beer. This can translate to higher body than desired at the high end of the mash temperature range (156-158F). Conversely, the thin mash also works poorly at the low end (148-150F), creating dry beer. In general BIAB works best in the mid mash temperature range (150-156F). Finally, if you are brewing a beer high in non-barley adjuncts such as flaked wheat, BIAB may not be the best option. (Ref: BN Article on BIAB)
Slurk
Grandmaster Brewer
@MikeinRH
Thanks a lot!
R, Slurk
Thanks a lot!
R, Slurk