Kettle cooling wort

My brewing partner wants to kettle cool our wort to at least 180 degrees before running it through the heat exchanger. This takes at least 45 minutes and is contrary to anything I've read. Any thoughts?

It seems lately I am going later and later with my hops, so a somewhat long whirlpool time before chill would be valuable. I use an immmersion chiller set up with a pre-chiller, and get down to pitch temps, relatively quickly...high ground water temp. I am thinking about adding a plate chiller for lagers, just add it in the chain.
  Worst case scenario, any time above 150 keeps infection away but kills flavour!

  JMHO...YMMV

Time spent above 140F supposedly creates the conditions for DMS to be formed with no chance to boil it off.  Most texts recommend the fastest chilling possible to aid the cold-break process and to get yeast pitched. 

We are in agreement. We have had problems with our heat exchanger clogging up when brewing heavily hopped beers. He seems to think the hot rest will settle the hop sludge on the kettle screen and less will circulate through.

http://blueribbonbrews.com/photos/process/

Look at pic #13 here.  Maybe you could fabricate a pre-screen scrubby type deal in the kettle before wort reaches the plate chiller. 

MaltLicker said:

http://blueribbonbrews.com/photos/process/

Look at pic #13 here.  Maybe you could fabricate a pre-screen scrubby type deal in the kettle before wort reaches the plate chiller.

Click to expand...

wow, that is a clear hydro sample. Is that your beer Maltlicker? here too http://postimg.org/image/pfvlnqk3h/
I have a bunch of stainless scrubbies from 3 years ago I meant to use like that, but haven't tried yet. Definitely on the todo list. Do you let the wort settle before transfer? How come photo #12 doesn't have the scrubbie? How come gave up on the pump? darn I could pick your brain for hours...

another option could be a hop spider. I just got one of these. They seems to hold more than a few oz while not effecting utilization. Though I still let stuff settle currently just to get the cold break out though I don't think cold break could clog a plate chiller.

I've read that with a vigorous boil you can pretty much eliminate DMS pre-cursor.

I think the biggest issue would be time. Do you have 45 minutes to wait? If not then go for it. I'd also like to try whirlpool hopping in the near future.

Yea, that is my current set-up.  The scrubby *usually* keeps 99% of hop bits in the kettle, and the nylon mesh bag in the carboy neck catches the rest.

The latest substitution is a 90-degree coupler pointed downward with the scrubby jammed underneath it.  The lower port-hole drains a good half gallon more, cutting  losses and boosting efficiency.  I also started tilting the kettle away from the valve-side while it's settling, and open the valve very slowly so gunk doesn't get drawn quickly into the scrubby.  That simple process change made a big difference in getting a clear draining with no slow-down of flow. 

I usually chill wort to a few degrees below the ferm temperature I want, and let it settle 20-30 mins while I am getting the yeast ready, either re-hydrating dry, or getting the starter and O2 gear ready for aerating and pitching.