Consistant stuck fermentations

[dakotaslim]

I have a recipe that always finished with FG 1.022. Four batches so far end at the same FG. I used Safale -s04, Safale US05 and Nottingham and all end at the same high gravity. I have tried every thing recommended to restart the fermentation but all have failed. What am I missing?

 

[dakotaslim]

Grain bill for 3 gal batch is 4lbs pale ale malt, 1/2 lb crystal 40L and 1 lb roasted Barley. Also 1/2 lb honey. Beer smith says it should ferment to 1.010

 

[Kevin58]

The numbers that Beersmith or any software gives you are estimates. 1.022 is not a bad FG. If that is what you consistently get using the same recipe with the same yeast then that's what it should be (using your current process and methods) imho. How does the beer taste? That is the question. If it tastes good then there is little reason to change anything. Drinkers are not going to sip your beer and say "this tastes like the final gravity is 0.012 too high." We make beer not numbers.

That being said there are several factors that can affect final gravity starting with the fermentables used in the recipe. Some sugars are highly fermentable leaving you with a dry beer while something like lactose is unfermentable and can add noticeable sweetness.

Mash temperature can also affect the fermentability of your wort. Mash low and you get more fermentable sugars... mash high and you get fewer fermentable sugars. A low mash gives you a dryer beer while a higher mash temp gives you more sweetness which may be desirable when you want more mouthfeel and a full bodied beer.

Then there is the health of your yeast. Freshness counts. Dry yeast is more forgiving than liquid yeast but you still want to pitch the freshest packet you can find. I know it's a hot debate but I would pitch dry yeast directly into the fermenter without rehydrating (unnecessary) or making a starter (doubly unnecessary). Pitching enough yeast is key... pitching at the correct temperature is key... as is controlling temperatures during fermentation.

Then there is the method you are using to take your gravity readings. We all see a lot of brewers buying a refractometer to take their readings without realizing that the presence of alcohol throws off a refractometer's readings. Once your beer is in the fermenter and yeast has been added you should; A) use a hydrometer or B) use a refractometer conversion tool to make the needed corrections. If your 1.022 FG was taken with a refractometer then in reality you are probably exactly where you want to be. And finally whatever you are using it has to be calibrated. I calibrate my gravity reading tools before every brewday.

 

[stevebonny]

What is your o.g.? 1022 dosen't seem way off for a strong brew. Mash temp will make a big difference, if your setting or measurement is off. Do you hold it consistent?

 

[dakotaslim]

o.g. 1.060

 

[stevebonny]

Your numbers all add up if the honey isn't fermenting for some reason.....and using a medium body mash temp. I usually add honey at the start of primary fermentation and it typically seems to ferment fine using a British or American ale yeast. I wonder if there is some issue with the type of yeast you are using or lack of nutrients?

When are you adding the honey?

Suggestions to try would be adding yeast nutrients as you would with a mead or try a different yeast maybe? Possibly adding oxygen before the fermentation could help? Add the honey earlier in the process. I'm spit balling.

If you like the beer though - As others have suggested, don't worry. I would think it would taste pretty sweet if the honey doesn't ferment, that might work well with the dark nature of the beer. If that is the problem...... and you get it to ferment it will taste drier and less body.

 

[dakotaslim]

Safale -s04 yeast and also tried Nottingham. Honey in the boil. Added nutrients and minerals. Oxygenate it good. I get good initial ferment. Mash temp is 150-160. Have a little trouble keeping at 155, which was the target. I can't believe a simple sugar like honey wouldn't ferment. I'm thinking it must have high levels of unfermentable sugars. It tastes good so I guess I shouldn't worry about it. I just don't want bottle bombs when I give it away to friends.

 

[stevebonny]

Haha, yeah I hate bottle bombs. 160F mash temp will do it too. Try plugging that into BeerSmith as your mash temp.
What temp do you ferment at? On an ale I usually ferment in the 60s but ramp up to ~75 at the end for a few days to help the yeast finish. Might make a difference. How do you know your fermentation has finished? I check gravity until I get 3 days with no change.
What are you using to measure your final gravity? Have you checked the cal on your hydrometer? They can be a couple of points off unless it is a fancy calibrated one.\ with a certificate. They need to be close to the cal temp too, otherwise the temp adjustment goes off.

 

[dakotaslim]

Berrsmith estimates 1.013. Ferment at 68F, Tried bumping it up to 72F but no luck. I use a hydrometer. It is off .002 but I factor that in. Tried 2 different hydrometers to be sure. It is suspisious that they all finish the same so I think Kevin58 might be right and that is the final finishng FG. I'm going to keep trying the recipe (tastes good) and see if anything changes.

 

[BOB357]

Your equipment profile is very important. Like most brewing software, BeerSmith relies heavily on user inputs, many of which come from the equipment profile. The further your inputs are from actual values, the less accurate BeerSmith's estimates will be. Here's a link to a great video that guides you through the process of setting up an equipment profile: https://brulosophy.com/2014/08/04/beersmith-tutorial-equipment-profile-setup/

Whether modifying an existing profile or creating a new one, you need to enter accurate measurements. Never rely on guestimates or factory markings on equipment. They are, more often than not, inaccurate. Never rely on your measuring devices unless you've verified their accuracy.

 

[stevebonny]

Berrsmith estimates 1.013. Ferment at 68F, Tried bumping it up to 72F but no luck. I use a hydrometer. It is off .002 but I factor that in. Tried 2 different hydrometers to be sure. It is suspisious that they all finish the same so I think Kevin58 might be right and that is the final finishng FG. I'm going to keep trying the recipe (tastes good) and see if anything changes.

Have fun experimenting! FYI, when I plug your recipe into Beersmith and adjust my efficiency to get 1060 O.G. I get 1017 FG with a 160F mash temp.

 

[dakotaslim]

I set up the equipment profile as best I could (lots of terms in there) but it really didn't make a big difference to the recipe numbers. I see now there are a lot of numbers in Beersmith I don't understand.

 

[BOB357]

If you followed the link I posted, you should be able to set up a realistic equipment profile. The video on that page is pretty comprehensive.

 

[Kevin58]

I set up the equipment profile as best I could (lots of terms in there) but it really didn't make a big difference to the recipe numbers. I see now there are a lot of numbers in Beersmith I don't understand.

Don't skip or skimp on the equipment profile! It is crucial for getting accurate results from your brewdays. In addition to the link that BOB357 here is another tutorial. Sit down and watch them both. If there are terms being used stop and look them up. It's a learning curve and unless you commit yourself to carrying out that learning process you will encounter frustration time and time again.