New to kegging

C

cpapkt

Apprentice
Joined
Dec 31, 2012
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
I am moving to kegging my beer.  I have a small fridge already and am researching ball lock systems.  I plan to have 2 corney kegs tapped at all times and am not planning on installing a tap through the wall of the fridge (at least as of right now).  I have thought about a single body regulator and either a 2 or 3 keg manifold or even splitting the gas line running off of the CO2 tank.

Currently, I have found the following system at a local homebrewing shop (http://www.homebrewing.org/Kegging-system-Ball-Lock-with-2-kegs-picnic-faucets-double-bodied-regulator-NO-CO2-TANK-_p_1779.html).  It seems like a pretty good price.  What is everyone's thought on this system? 

Any suggestions/comments are appreciated.
 
I have that very system.  The regulator is pretty good quality and averything that I have fits nicely inside of a mini fridge.  I do plan on moving the CO2 tank to the ouside of the fridge at some point.  It's a very nice starter system.  I have mine hooked up to a twin tap tower mounted on top of the fridge. 

I also have another system with a single regulator that runs a 2 line manifold.  The only draw-back to that is that those kegs have to remain at equal pressures.  So if you have different serving pressures for each beer on tap you need the dual regulator. 

A dual reg also leys you force carb one keg at high pressure while leaving the other keg at 8-10 psi for serving.
 
Looks ptetty good you need a bottle which is gonna run about 70 or 80 bucks I get my keg stuff from northern brewer or kegworks.I have 3 taps on mine I have never needed a dual regulator or plan to get one as long as you have a manifold with shutoffs you can force carb one and isolate the other
 
If you are just starting kegging I would get a primary regulator and shank it thru the door to  a faucet & drip tray.  You can always add a secondary later if you find you need it.  Or just get a spare co2 for carbing, etc.  Picnic faucets are good for occasional tastes but I find they leak and run on too much and it makes a mess unless you are patient enough to stare at a full beer waiting for the picnic faucet to stop so you can drink it.  .  Micromatic makes good quality that doesnt need frequent replacement.  http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-cid-614.html.  Watch your keg size vs fridge clearance.  Converted coke kegs are about 23" high with ball locks and pepsi kegs are 26" with ball locks.  http://www.cornykeg.com/.  If I had to do it over again I would find a way to run shanks thru the side so you dont pull on your lines every time you open the door.  Gets bothersome when you have multiple kegs and co2 with the regulator sticking out.  Maybe next fridge.
 
You will thank yourself for switching to kegs. One of the more important lessons I've learned is the proper method for gassing a keg. I simply crank the C02 up to 30 PSI and lay the keg on its' side on a towel or some other soft surface. While sitting in a chair, I gently roll the keg back and forth for exactly 16 minutes. A gassed keg can be stored forever. Never make the mistake of waiting to gas a keg after you've filled it with beer. Even the slightest amount of oxygen left in a keg can cause contamination. The next trick is regulating the keg once you hook it up to a tap. I usually get a pitcher and let the initial burst of foam fill it up. Then I release gas from the keg very slowly until I can draw a glass of beer that is mostly beer and not foam. I NEVER leave a keg under constant CO2 pressure. I lost a whole tank of gas that way due to a "small" leak. When the tap needs a boost to increase flow and the desired amount of foam, I simply open up one of the valves on my CO2 manifold for that keg. This took me a long time to learn on my own. I hope this helps!
 
My fridge is only 5 ft tall on the outside.  I have about 25 inches at the lowest point and 28 at the highest on the inside.  I looked at the single body regulator and a manifold but it works out to be about the same price as the dual body regulator.  That is why i figured i would just go with the dual body regulator.  If I end up with 1 more keg (since that's all I have room for) I can split one of the gas lines.  Got that tip from another local Homebrewing store.  Good idea on the picnic tap leaking gas and/or beer.  I will check out some of the other suggestions.  I may even consider installing the tap n the side of the fridge.  More suggestions will still be appreciated.
 
Coming out the door is the safe route.  if coming out the side you would have to either check with the manufacturer of the fridge or remove the inside panel so you make sure you dont hit anything.
 
I use a chest freezer with a Johnson controller. I learned the hard way that the CO2 tank and regulator belong outside if you're not going to do something about humidity and condensation inside the cooler.
 
Maine, just got a chest freezer for long term storage.  50 bucks for a 48".  It was a rust bucket that got a restore.  I have heard about the moisture  problem with controlled freezers.  I use donated fridges for serving, fermenting.  Was planning no co2 in the freezer but that may change.  What did you run into? Ive had it set at 35F with nothing in it for several weeks now with no moisture problem.  What is around the bend?
 
Any exposed metal of a type that will oxidize on contact with water was oxidized. I'm guessing inside the regulator as well since it doesn't regulate anymore. More of an on/off with a pressure gauge.
 
It also depends on the humidity where you live. Summers here can get pretty muggy. When I was in Colorado I bet I could have kept everything in the freezer without any problems because it's so dry.
 
I get a little condensation during the summer nothing to bad, its very humid in ct. i put a small fan linked up to the thermostat I think that will help a little
 
Being in Florida I may have a problem.  Guess I should stick to storage only.  Have heard that Damp-Rid helps too.  Thanks
 
I am not sure of what humidity issues I will have.  The fridge will be in my basement where it generally is around 63-64 in the winter and 68 in the summer.  We also have a whole house dehumidifier to help control the humidity in the house. 
 
Just called the local gas supply store and I can get a 50 cubic ft. steel CO2 tank for $22.36 and then filled for $30-$40.  Seems like a deal since a 10lb reconditioned steel tank from my local Homebrewing store is $60. 
 
I think I paid a $80 or $90 deposit on my 5# CO2 tank. The local gas supply company charges between $15 and $20 to exchange it.
 
A few more phone calls have given me the skinney.  I was given a bum steer on the prices.  The tank is much more at the local gas supply place.  I bought my tanks, regulator, etc, (this is the one I bought http://www.homebrewing.org/Kegging-system-Ball-Lock-with-2-kegs-picnic-faucets-NO-CO2-TANK_p_1502.html).  Now I need to figure out do I buy a 5 lb or 10 lb tank and aluminum or steel. 

My local home brew store has a new 5 lb aluminum tank for $65 and 10 lb reconditioned steel tank for $60.  I also found a 10 lb aluminum new tank for $81 with shipping.  I know the tanks need to be recertified every 5 years.  I am leaning toward a 10 lb tank but am trying to avoid the recertification fee since I don't think I will use all 10 lbs before the certification expires.  I will force carbonate and probably only brew every 2-4 months and space in my fridge shouldn't be an issue.

With that, what is better 5 lb or 10 lb and aluminum or steel?
 
A 10-pound tank is substantially bigger than a 5-pound. I could never fit a 10-pound tank and two cornelius kegs in my kegerator at the same time.

Also, unless you get your tank filled while you wait, most places simply exchange your empty Co2 tank with a full one. I almost cried when I had to turn over the shiny new tank I bought ... in exchange for something that sat on a WWII cruiser for five decades.
 
find a welding supply store, maybe 3 and ask how much to fill a 5 lb tank.I got a wide range of pricing but settled on 1 right near my house,then buy the tank from them.i have to bring them beer when I go so it just keeps getting cheaper. forget the 10 lb tank its a rediculous amount of gas,I run 3 kegs and a 5 lasts me like a year and a half.dont forget to check for leaks or you will blow that thing real quick
 
I called a local gas supply/welding store and they have a 5 lb steel tank for $86.  It's another $12-$13 to fill it.  The best part is I don't have to worry about the recert fee which they quoted me at $40.  I was told (and I will verify this) I will not have to pay the recert fee even if it takes me 6 years to go through the tank.  It's basically a one time fee on the tank and I am set.  Sounds like a deal to me and I will have more room to get a third keg if I want.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top