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Sparge Times?

  • Thread starter suthrncomfrt1884
  • Start date
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suthrncomfrt1884

So, I've heard a lot of differing opinions on how long the sparge time should be.  I'd like to get some input. 

I just did my first all-grain batch yesterday, and it only took me around 20-25 minutes to batch sparge the entire thing.  I've heard that it should take around an hour, so I'm just wondering if next time I should take it a bit slower? 
 
I will usually do two two batch sparges for 30 minutes apiece.  Maybe overkill, but my trailings at the end are usually still pulling a 1.015.  Not quite as low as the recommended 1.010, but still quite low compared to my mash draining.
 
I think this just depends on your system and how low it takes to get the goodies out and how much you're willing to leave behind.  That hour rule of thumb you reference is probably pertaining to fly sparging which takes a bit longer.  Batch sparging takes as long as it takes for your tun to drain.  having said that, I will let my cooler drain for a pretty long time, even after it starts to trickle, I'll still let it go, cause its still bringing sugar with it.  Its not that big of a deal because usually, at this time, my other rounds of sparge water are heating up so its not a biggie to leave the valve open.  Sometimes takes 20-30 minutes per round but I think its worth it to get as much of the sugar out as possible.
 
My batch sparge usually takes me anywhere from 30-60 min. Some are longer because I have more water to sparge with. After considerable deliberations and Some helpful people here on this forum, I may be rethinking my processes depending on my next test batch.

Cheers
Preston
 
My first go took awhile-I think I let the grains mash for 40 minutes.  Then the sparge was a matter of minutes.

Preston,I hear of people using bigger bulkheads and tubing, but then I hear of concerns with hot side areation.

I kinda think I need to do a half dozen all grain batches to really get that part of the process perfected.  Right no I have the 3/8 ID tubing that was left over from the IC I built.  It mates to a PVC inline Ball valve with nylon barbs.  Works good for now.
 
What is the right yardstick to use here?  Is it time efficiency, extraction efficiency, using the least grains, or what?  Repeatability?
 
Well, for my favorite homebrew, it has been repeatability.
 
MaltLicker said:
What is the right yardstick to use here?  Is it time efficiency, extraction efficiency, using the least grains, or what?  Repeatability?
For me it varies depending on the brew day or the beer. Sometimes it Time, sometimes it extraction, most often than not, it's repeatability.

Cheers
Preston
 
How about extraction and repeatability?  No need to settle on just one, of course I am constantly looking for ways to make the brew day a little easier, I'm not at all efficient there but then again, that inefficiency is repeated somewhat constantly
 
I usually run my sparge pretty slow, 45 min to an hour.  Last batch I got distracted and the sparge was done in 30 minutes, at a considerable loss in efficiency.
On average I'll get a starting gravity of 1.050 or more from 10# of grain.  This last one I only got a 1.044, and I'm quite positive that the accidentally rushed sparge was the culprit.
 
Yea, I thought that was the reason fly/continuous was more efficient than batch.......steady even pressure and rinsing of the grains.  So all else equal, slower fly is "better", i.e., more extraction efficient.  So is batch really more like flooding, then draining, rather than rinsing?  And at what point does too-fast-fly become less extraction efficient than batch? 
 
SOGOAK said:
Preston,I hear of people using bigger bulkheads and tubing, but then I hear of concerns with hot side areation.
I use a manifold made from 1/2" slotted copper tubing going through a brass bulkhead and SS ball valve. Then into a barbed fitting with a clear tube into the kettle. When I start to see bubbles in the tube I tip the MT so there is very little wort left on the grist. Not because I am worried about any hot side aeration in the wort, merely just trying to brew good beer. It was the way I was shown, so I do it. I have not detected any off flavors to speak of. I don't think anyone should go bigger that 1/2". You would have a higher chance of Hot-side aeration "if" you are not using a tube to quietly add the wort to the kettle. I have seen people use those big funnels with the strainer trying to keep anything from going into the kettle. Not something I would recommend. Using them with the Carboy is another story tho.

I have never Fly Sparged, so I have no idea if it is more efficient. All I know is what I have read, but I have no practical (or Real World) experience. So I cant add to the discussion.

Cheers
Preston
 
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