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Quick Disconnect Recommendations

sickbrew

Grandmaster Brewer
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
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Location
Vancouver, WA
I used a pump for the first time 2 weeks ago for two back to back 10 gallon batches and it worked out wonderfully.  Only (minor) issue was having to unscrew the hose clamps for each transfer. 

I've seen the poly-something ones that all the brew shops sell and they seem fine.  I like the idea of brass and SS better though.

Anybody got any hot recommendations?

cheers
 
You can get a mashtun built for like $40 if you are handy.  With that, yeast ranching, and a wholesale hop and grain source, I'm turning out 10 gal for $40 including propane.  I know beergear is a very slippery slope, but don't loose sight of ways to save cash and make great brew.
 
sickbrew said:
I've seen the poly-something ones that all the brew shops sell and they seem fine.  I like the idea of brass and SS better though.


Anyone know of solutions to this?  I am using zip ties and have to cut them off each time.  The removable ones from LHBS are not big enough for my pump hoses. 
 
I got mine from McMastercarr  # 6739k68 and 6739k59 I use the female on my hose and the male on HLT M/t,BK works awesome.
 
I got mine on line from <http://quickcouplings.net/osc/index.php?cPath=21_29>  They were the cheapest.  However, taking a page from Lonnie's Brutus 10 build, I think I will be going with the standard brass hose ones from Lowes on my new system. They should last longer and be much cheaper.
 
I'm a big fan of Parker Hannifin
I have 4 of their half inch, dry break connectors I'm going to use on my Conical and BK
 
Colder's polysulfone connectors are  great. 
They take to boiling  water for sterilization just fine  too.
 
If I were to go back and do this all over again, I would go with 1/2" tri-clamps. Yes, they are expensive but they are very simple devices and easily cleaned.

I currently have 1/2" quick disconnects through Morebeer but they are very expensive and they have lots of moving parts which I can never be sure have been cleaned properly. In addition, the silicone o=rings inside the connects will eventually have to be replaced.'
 
OK, I still haven't got any disconnects but after watching this video, I think I'm sold on the SS option.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7VQQ1bxvTw

cheers
 
now there's a fellow who likes making videos.
 
Check out pro-flow dynamic out of calf....they of 316 S.S. 1/2 inch........ Quick disconnection
I use them on all my connections,,, in fact I use my sparge tank and convert it to an ice water kettle and connect it to my plate chiller and re- circulate it while chilling my wort,  out of the boil kettle,,,so I don't have to use a garden hose, just throw couple of bags of ice add water, hook up to the pump,
Its alot cleaner on the flooring in the garage floor and your feet.....
 
Sickbrew - most quick disconnects work well, however it's been my experience ( 6yrs @ 150 gallons a yr)  metal QD's get very hot and are hard to handle. They also tarnish and can be hard to clean. I use the polysulfone QD's with thermoplastic tubing. When you're in the middle of transferring hot wort or water, the last thing you need is a leaky or ruptured line. The poly fittings are a lot cooler to the touch, easy to use and do not leak. They are a little pricey, but IMHO are worth every penny. I use female QD's on hoses and male fittings on all stationary equipment like brewkettle, pumps, and therminator. I use 1/2" ID, you can move water faster with this hose. 

MCB 
 
Pro Flow Dynamics is offering 10% off right now.

http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/01/pro-flow-dynamics-10-off-for-hbf.html
 
I have been using QD's from Hobby Beverage  http://www.minibrew.com
They have a male fitting for the tubing and a female with 1/2 NPT.  The price for a pair is about $5-6.  The locking feature is a "turn to lock" and it is not real positive, so I make sure the hose is twisted slightly to apply pressure into the locked position.  If it is a tube that I handle often, I put a piece of electrical tape around it as a more positive locking feature. 

Not the best, but the price was right and I have not been able to convince myself to spend the money for the Colder Polysulfone QD's ($15+ a pair).  In my opinion (based only on catalog data and comments) these are the best.  They even have end fittings with check values so you don't dump the contents of the tubing on the floor when you disconnect them.

David
 
So now I have both the brass version that you can get from McMasterCarr and the SS cam-lock version that I got from www.bargainfittings.com.  They both work great but do get quite warm.  The SS cam locks take a bit more work to hook up, almost requiring two hands while the brass guys are a one hand operation.  They're both much cheaper than the plastic quick disconnects.  Besides I just use a glove when if it's going to be hot. Another downside to brass is lead, but that's another thread.  At this point I like the ease of the brass fittings but the looks of the ss fittings.  The jury is still out.  Perhaps I should get a set of the poly connections for a true comparison.
 
I use silicon hoses with cheap, stainless, Lowes' worm-gear hose clamps.

Yep, they are difficult to loosen and tighten - if you try to use a screwdriver; however, if you use a nut driver it's quick and easy to tighten and loosen the clamps. When you buy the clamps, go by the tool department and get a nut driver that fits each size clamp!

All it takes is a couple of turns to tighten or loosen the clamp enough to get the soft silicon tubing on or off the male barb fitting.

Yes, now that you mention it, I am a cheap skate!
 
I recommend using silicon tubing with cheap, stainless, worm-gear clamps from Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc.  IF you use a nut driver to tighten and loosen them, they're quick and easy to use. If you try to tighten or loosen the clamps with a screw driver they're very unfriendly. With a nut driver it can be a one-hand operation.

A nut driver looks like a small socket wrench on the end of a screwdriver.

To keep the clamp from falling off, once you remove the hose from the barb fitting, re-tighten the clamp one turn.
 
IMHO if you're in this long term, get the higher quality stainless QD's. Female  /  male  along with high temp food grade 1/2" silicone tubing. I've been using these a long time with no problems. I previously tried the cheaper ones which leaked and the couplings would stick.
 
Stainless steel hose barbs, 1/2" silicone hose, hose clamps for pressure side and no clamps for inlet. Just pull the inlet hose off the barb and insert onto the desired kettles barb. Easy to clean, one hand operation. I use a pickled copper elbow "hook" for the outlet than can be moved to the top of any kettle without disconnecting anything

( an old compounding method)  . just hang it over the top of the the desired kettle
 
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