Few All Grain Noob Questions

Hello All have a couple of questions could use some advice on.

I have a 10 Gallon Igloo Cooler (the round kind) Lauter Tun with a false bottom.  Am I better off sticking with the false bottom or should I get a steel braided hose.  I have done two brews with it, 1 was a rye based beer which had no jam ups.  My second brew was a simple pale ale nothing crazy and it jammed up something fierce and couldn't get it unstuck.  A large amount of the grist had found its way underneath the false bottom and caused the jam and was also why I couldn't get it undone. 

As a post brew autopsy I checked the false bottom it was fastened securely but doesn't sit flush with the bottom of the cooler.  I don't have the lingo down so excuse the explanation but the false bottom is attached to the spigot with a stainless steel pipe, so there isn't alot of flex, not sure if this is causing a problem.  It is supposed to "Hardplum" the false bottom down it seems to lift quite easy. Would just using  thick rubber (PVC or whatever) hose be a better option?

Finally-  I love the hobby and want to continue it and would like to get a brew stand at some point.  Next step would be to get some 15 gallon kettles, the question I have is which is better using kegs or brew kettles?  I see them both for sales not sure the benefits of one vs the other.

Sorry for the epic post.

If you want to seal the false bottom, find something food grade like high temp silicone hose.  You could slice it down the center and wrap it around the edge of the false bottom.    The problem is the false bottom should fit properly and is not.  I use a rectangular igloo 48qt.  I made a simple manifold much like John Palmer shows in How to Brew.  Other I know buy a stainless wrapped bathroom water line hose and cut end off and slide the stainless hose off and use that. 

Your false bottom works great with fly sparging while the bazooka screen type usually fare better with batch sparging.  My manifold works about the same for both though I batch sparge.

As for kettles and kegs.  They are different.  You process has to be tuned for either.  Kettles have more surface area and are wider rather than taller like kegs.  Both work.  Both are fine for brewing.  I use both.  My keg has a lower evaporation rate than my kettle. 

Brew stands look cool but are not really necessary.  I encourage you to focus on fermentation first.  Setup a temperature controlled fermenting chamber of some sort.  nail your fermentation process then worry about the hot side stuff.  This is the biggest mistake all new brewers make. Well, maybe it is even with poor sanitation.

- Joe

thanks!  Great info.  I have a basement that stays at about 67 degrees all year anda cold storage room, but I am going to by a fridge or freezer to lager in.  Just want the brew rack because I brew outside (Wife won't let me go inside LOL) and in the winter its going to be a bit trickier-  Live in ontario

That help.  Lots of fermentation action can happen at once.  I can ferment one carboy at a time in my temp controlled mini-fridge.

Keep in mind that the yeast generate heat in addition to alcohol and CO2.  You might want to observe the fermenter temp at various time of the day and night.  All you might need is a fan to keep it close to the 67 mark.  I set my temp controller to 65.  the carboy fermometer reads 67-68.  Bigger IPAs can run warmer.

You using an Igloo or an Igloo style cooler? Most false bottoms are made to a particular manufacturer's specifications, and may not fit into different brands of coolers.

Either way I can't think of a better solution than using hose as a gasket.

To agree with jomebrew my brews routinely register 2-4 degrees F higher than their surroundings.  I haven't started a brew since June since I've no dedicated fridge and must wait until my basement averages below 65.  Will probably brew the weekend after next.

I use a bazooka style screen made from a washer machine hose rather than a faucet or toilet hose as Jome suggests (its diameter is larger). I also use it for fly sparge and average around 75% total brewhouse eff (80-85 mash eff). I have never batch sparged~only fly because its what I know and is what I was taught. I made a manifold and had a couple stuck mashes after a few mashes that worked just fine so I decided to switch to a screen instead and have had no problems with mashes getting stuck since. Also like Jomebrew said there are bigger fish to fry like ferm temps and sanitation first then worry about buying an expensive Stainless Brewsculpture. LOL!