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Fermentation Tip: Get a sample port...and use it!

tom_hampton

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I'm a huge fan of having a sample port of some kind on primary fermenters.  You can learn so much from risk free monitoring of fermentation.  You can check SG/Plato, pH, temperature, taste, aroma as it progresses each and every day.  Its amazing how quickly taste and aroma change from the yeast.  24 hours in on my latest Belgian and there is already maybe 50% of the flavor and aroma from the yeast in the beer.  Another 24 hours and it was probably 90+%.

It really validates what gets taught in texts and podcasts by the experts:  temp control during the first 48-72 hours is critical (for Ales).  Almost of all of the yeast character comes in that timeframe.  After that, it almost doesn't matter what you do. 

When I used a thief to take my samples, I was always nervous of introducing an infection by sampling.  So, I wouldn't take a sample until day 7 or so.  By then everything was done and over with.  All I was doing was ensuring that was really true. 

I use plastic bucket with bottling spigots.  Admittedly, they have there cons, notably: scratches and risk of contamination, and O2 permeability.  I manage the scratch risk by buying new buckets periodically (much cheaper from industrial supply houses), and never putting anything metal or abrasive in them.  I wash with either liquid (PBW)alone, or a synthetic fiber cloth if its crusty.  I disassemble the spigots and sanitize them thoroughly. 

O2 permeability I manage by keeping the time in the bucket to a minimum (generally under 2 weeks...and some beers can be done and clear in 7 days: High flocculatant yeasts, and robust fermenters).  The sample port actually helps me do this, I can tell the day that fermentation is done. 

I sample every day, and I know exactly when it hits terminal gravity.  I can taste the beer, and if there's no diactyl detected (never is), then I can shut down the temp control and let it clarify.  Since the racking port is at the bottom, I know when the beer is clear.  As soon as it comes out clear, into the keg it goes. 

I have room for more than 6 fermenters in my temp controlled room.  I frequently have 4 going at once.  I can go into the room with 4 50ml vials, and pull samples off each fermenter.  Then I can take them all back to my measuring equipment and measure whatever I want to (Plato, pH, etc).  Then I can taste each sample, and compare notes with the wife in the comfort of the living room.  No worries about dripping from a thief, or spilling my hydro jar. 

Admittedly, you CAN do the same thing with a thief.  That's the way I did it for years.  But, there is always that risk when you poke something down into the beer, plus taking the lid off the bucket to do it (more risk).  As a result, (as I said above) I would wait until I was pretty sure it was done before I took a sample.  My goal was to only take two samples from each beer which both showed that the SG was stable, and no diacetyl was present. 

The second benefit is that it really helps in minimizing risk of infections.  My system and process is now almost entirely closed. 

With the racking port, my beer never touches anything except the bucket, the racking tube, and the keg after flame out....and its full surface area  is never exposed directly to open atmosphere.  I fill the fermenter through the racking port, too.  This allows me to put 1 gallon of sanitizer (star san) into the fermenter, snap on the lid, and cover the bung the air lock hole.  Then I shake the fermenter to distribute the sanitizer several times throughout brewday.  Finally, empty most of the sanitizer and I place my airstone through the airlock hole and run the pump to flush the fermenter with sanitary air.  Once that's done (30 minutes), I remove the air stone and empty the remaining cup or so of sanitizer, then rebung the fermenter.  Finally, I fill through the spigot, and aerate through the airlock hole. 

Since the kettle is capped at flameout, the cold wort is NEVER directly exposed to atmosphere and contamination once the flame is off.

Finally, I rack directly from the fermenter through the spigot, and into the liquid post on my sanitized, CO2 purged kegs.  I'm thinking about getting a sterile filter to plug into the airlock hole so that the bucket fills with sanitary air as the bucket drains into the keg.

Anyway, just wanted to share my experiences over the last year, and what I think the benefits are of a racking port of some kind on your fermenter of choice.



 
I find that my refractometer tends to drift away from calibration quickly.  I recalibrate every brew day.  I'll never give up my hydrometer. 

I have a simple, uncomplicated and dreadfully inefficient method of filling my hydrometer jar from the carboy.  First, I have a spray bottle of starsan in distilled water.  I spray everything liberally and often. 

I sanitize some 1/2" ID tubing, stuff it in the carboy not disturbing the yeast cake.  I plug an end with my thumb and pull it out and dump it into the jar.  Repeat until I have enough to measure.  I used to drink soda from a straw this way as a kid until my dad would smack me in the head and tell me to quick playing with my soda.

I test with both the hydrometer and refractometer.  I always drink the sample and make take some sort of tasting note.
 
jomebrew said:
I find that my refractometer tends to drift away from calibration quickly.  I recalibrate every brew day.  I'll never give up my hydrometer. 

I have a simple, uncomplicated and dreadfully inefficient method of filling my hydrometer jar from the carboy.  First, I have a spray bottle of starsan in distilled water.  I spray everything liberally and often. 

I sanitize some 1/2" ID tubing, stuff it in the carboy not disturbing the yeast cake.  I plug an end with my thumb and pull it out and dump it into the jar.  Repeat until I have enough to measure.  I used to drink soda from a straw this way as a kid until my dad would smack me in the head and tell me to quick playing with my soda.

I test with both the hydrometer and refractometer.  I always drink the sample and make take some sort of tasting note.

Maybe try a wine theif. Years ago I made a few batches of wine and you need to closely watch SG. The theif made drawing samples a breeze.

Mike
 
I have the vee gee atc refractometer.  I had to adjust it once since I got it in June. I check it several times during brew day. And every day I use it.
 
jomebrew said:
I sanitize some 1/2" ID tubing, stuff it in the carboy not disturbing the yeast cake.  I plug an end with my thumb and pull it out and dump it into the jar.  Repeat until I have enough to measure.  I used to drink soda from a straw this way as a kid until my dad would smack me in the head and tell me to quick playing with my soda.

Wow...I'd go mad!  You have an amazing tolerance for pain. 
 
carlos arzeno said:
Can you put any pictures please?

I'll try and remember to grab pictures next time I brew.  No brewing this weekend.  We're refinishing...er finishing....the kitchen floors this weekend. 
 
tom_hampton said:
jomebrew said:
I sanitize some 1/2" ID tubing, stuff it in the carboy not disturbing the yeast cake.  I plug an end with my thumb and pull it out and dump it into the jar.  Repeat until I have enough to measure.  I used to drink soda from a straw this way as a kid until my dad would smack me in the head and tell me to quick playing with my soda.

Wow...I'd go mad!  You have an amazing tolerance for pain.

It sounds harder than it is.  I have a dorm size fridge with tem control and a 6" computer fan for a ferementation chamber.  There is no room for a wine thief.  I have one.  The tubing is easy and works with the 4" clearance.

 
That's a very interesting way of brewing. Question on how you pitch your yeast and cool your wort.

My local suppliers only sale pellet hops, which clog the screen in my boiling pot. I usually have to use a sterilized paddle to scrape the screen to keep the wort flowing threw the counter flow chiller. This usually allows hop material to enter the chiller, which I strain out going into the bucket.

When pitching yeast I stir it into the wort. 
 
I use mostly leaf hops. I have a bazooka screen on my keggle. It never clogs with leaf hops,even with the full pound in my Pliny clone. Sometime I use up to 20% pellets.   

I use an immersion chiller with an electric stirrer.  The stirrer is attached to a hinged lexan lid. I put the stirrer in thee boiling wort with the irish moss. At flame out I turn on the stirrer, hook up the hoeses to the chiller. It takes 6 minutes to cool below 90f. Then I pump ice water through the chiller. It takes 5 more minutes to cool to 62.
 
Tom, do you find that you would stop fermentation if you reached a specific gravity or would you let it ride to see how low it could go? How would you stop it? just by racking and then putting in the fridge?
 
I don't ever stop fermentation short.  I always wait for fg to be stable two days in a row.

If I want body and sweetness I use lactose or maltodextrine.

 
It probably also helps that you have a fermentation chamber with shelving. I really can't picture getting a sample from a spigot in a chest freezer.
 
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