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new pot idea

D

dannoR

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I have a keg that I am working on.  First I'm cutting the top off to give it a more clean edge.  I will then weld on 2 D-handles.    2nd I am planning on welding a 1/2 elbow dead center in the bottom.  I then plan to run a nipple out through the keg skirt and add a valve.  I will also add a false bottom.  I also thought about adding a short pc of 1/2 pipe to the elbow.  Just enough to create a little lip on the inside to hold back some hops.  I know I will have some carmelization and darkenking but think it will be minimal
Anyone see problems with this setup.   
 
ole happy here.  it aint so bad of an idea but all the pipes are gonna be right in the flames so that could cause you some more work later on down the road.
 
happy hillbilly said:
ole happy here.  it aint so bad of an idea but all the pipes are gonna be right in the flames so that could cause you some more work later on down the road.
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That was my exact thought..... seemed like everything was in the flames. Not sure if that would be a problem or not, but just thinkin' that couldn't be good.

Other than that, the idea seems rather solid....
 
That and all the hop and break gunk will go right out the bottom. I am currently going out the top with an auosiphon. I do use the vavlve on the bottom quite a bit too though as the keggle doubles as my hlt and dumping is just faster than siphoning. I almost wish I went bigger than 1/2" just to make it faster.
 
grathan said:
I almost wish I went bigger than 1/2" just to make it faster.
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....buuuut..... wouldn't that be a problem with hot aeration? I was told that wasn't good?
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Typically, you would not be emptying the boiler until after the wort has been chilled.  Unless it's a counter-flow chiller? 
 
BYO magazine had a good idea:  you puy the drain valve at the botton and a pipe inside.  I'll try to explain: short straight to a T that has little ends that lead to 90's pointing down.  These 90's are capped and the small holes drilled to help filter out the gunk.  It is NOT attached permanentally to the valve so you can clean it.  The 90's are then millimeters off the bottom.
 
A short nipple that stands maybe 3/4 of a inch above the bottom threaded into the welded 90 should create enough of a lip inside to hold back a good share of the hops and break material. 
 
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