boil question

How much of a boil does one need for doing full volume extract batches? On my first batch, I did it in my stove top. I covered the vessel to get things rolling then uncovered so it would not boil over or burn. I am thinking it was around 200* for the entire 60 minute boil...which was a good rolling simmer. Is that Okay, or do I really need to BOIL for 60 minutes?

When I went full-boil with my extract brews, I purchased a larger pot (8.5 gallon) and moved the operation outside to a propane burner (like used for a turkey fryer). At first; I tried to boil what would've been a full volume for a 5 gallon extract brew - about 6.5 gallons - in the kitchen and even though I've got one burner on my gas range that'll go 18,000 BTU, it still was barely enough to get that volume to a simmer.

The boil should be vigorous enough to drive off the things you don't want in the brew like Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS). For this reason, you don't want the lid on during the boil. A vigorous boil is also needed to achieve a good hot break which is the coagulation of proteins that will settle out in the fermenter as trub, thus resulting in clearer beer. A vigorous boil will also improve hop utilization.

Being able to maintain a vigorous boil will improve your brew, but how vigorous? I generally go for a level of activity in the pot that looks like the surface is rolling fairly well, bouncing around, but not bouncing all the way out of the pot. I take it to that point and then back it off just a little. The length of the boil will depend on what's being boiled. Generally; a 60-minute boil is all that is needed for most brews.

philm63 said:

A vigorous boil is also needed to achieve a good hot break which is the coagulation of proteins that will settle out in the fermenter as trub, thus resulting in clearer beer. A vigorous boil will also improve hop utilization.

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This is the reason I am asking. I have the book "how to brew" by John Palmer, and he mentions this. But, he also contradicts him self by saying that LME added near the end of the boil is beneficial in both clarity & flavor. The LME added late, I wouldn't think experience that "hot break" , as I have seen recipes calling for LME additions at flame out.

One of the biggest reasons I know of for late ME additions is for a better hop utilization factor at a lower sg during the boil. You don't get much hot break from extracts. All the hot break was formed while they were boiling the wort down to make the extract. So really all you need to do is pasteurize the ME. How ever the boil is also important for the isomerization of hop oils into buttering compounds. So if I were you I would lower my boil volume in the kettle and only add enough ME at the beginning of the boil to reach your target OG. Do your boil and hop additions that way and then add the ME to the kettle for just a couple of min to pasteurize it.  Then when you water it down at in the fermenter you hit your target OG. This will allow you to do a proper boil on your stovetop and not worry so much of a boil over. Cheers

much better to boil  3.5 gal well than poorly boil a greater amt add more water to make ur 5 or 5.5 for extract brewers--all grain is always bigger pot bigger boil!